From north to south

Migrations are not only typical for swallows; some types of fish also bravely conquer the same distances, or more, as birds do. The Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) is such a type of migratory fish. This fish is a strong and gluttonous sort of the vast family of Gadidae. Every winter the strong sea currents lead this fish from the arctic Barents Sea, to the warmer and shallow layers of the Norwegian Sea, where the high temperature of the water triggers the cod to spawn. The Lofoten Islands are one of the most famous places, where the extensive cod shoals rest after their long and tiring travels. There, they carry out a reproduction circle and gather new fat supplies for the nothing less tiring way back home north. A female cod can lay up to more than 1.000.000 fish eggs, from which tiny, some millimeter-long larva hatch. In the Lofoten waters, they find numerous zooplanktons that they eat in the first phases of their life-cycle. The young cod leave the islands after some years, at a time, when they are developed physically strong enough to travel the hard and excruciating way to the Barents Sea, where they finally reach sexual maturity. The Norwegian fishermen know the precise migrations rituals of the Atlantic cod for centuries. These fisherman had always had a bountifully catch, which was too big for the local folk to eat all at once, so they dried the fish on flat coastal rocks. The stabilized temperature over freezing point and the ideal air moisture enabled the Norwegians a successful dehydration and ideal preserved fish meat. The preserved cod-meat became a long-lasting source of nutritious protein; it was also handy for storage and ideal for long journeys and travels. It is no coincidence that the Atlantic cod, named “polenovka” in Slovenia, became sought-after merchandise and a global merchandise item traded mainly for cereal, since long forgotten times. The ship wreckage of the Venetian merchandise boat, under the Capitan Pietro Querini, in 1431, was an incident that forever shaped the cod fish presence in the Mediterranean Sea till this very day. The ships galley, headed to Flanders, filled with wine, honey, spices and wax, was carried away to sea in a horrible storm; the strong wind destroyed the helm and the Querini-crew decided, after drifting aimlessly for many weeks on high sea, that they would built improvised rafts and take the only rowboat and try their luck on the open waters. The improvised raft was never seen or heard from again but the rowboat, with the now 10-times smaller number of the rescued crewmembers on board, drifted after a 1-month-long odyssey, directly to the remote and deserted tip of one of the many Islands of the Lofoten Islands. The 16 remaining and living crewmembers were able to survive for 11 days by gathering sea snails, glued to rocks and at the end they even managed to make a fire by themselves. The fishermen of the neighboring islands saw the smoke from the fire they made and immediately sent a secure team and saved them. Before the eyes for Querini and his crew stood the rescuers, the Norwegian fishermen, that since the times of the Vikings did not change much in their ways or culture. After some months, when their strength returned, the crew returned home to Venice with a batch of dried cod fish with them. The people greeted the crew like heroes and the serf wain of the Serenissima tradespeople was awoken with them. The Venetians immediately contacted the Norwegians for “stoccafisso”, the Italian name for cod (the “stok vish” is a coinage word for fish and stick, in the middle-aged Dutch language) and the cod was soon to be found all over the Venice trading markets, to the far reaches of Istria, Dalmatia and even Greece and Crete. Everything else is history. The “polenovka” stayed from the days of the Republic of Venice till today as an essential diet for Slovenians, mainly the in Trieste living Slovenian population, the Slovenian Kras and the in Primorje living Slovenians, down to the towns Koper and Piran. The cod was customarily made on Christmas day and in Eastertime and is still, till today, made traditionally in these times. The logic around this specially-chosen time periods is simple – the soaking of the cod fish takes many days and the low winter temperatures help the meat to not dissolve. To show you the true taste of the Slovenian “polenovka”, I have prepared a recipe, which was given to me many years ago by the cook Toni Erzeg, who works in the restaurant Dimitri Lešić, from the middle-aged Croatian Korčula. Some even more interesting facts about the Atlantic cod and “polenovka” will surely follow, because in March I will travel to the Norwegian fishermen on Lofoten Islands personally and will be equipped with my trusty pen, paper and camera.  

WHITE "BALAKAR"

Dried Atlantic cod, Dalmatian style

Ingredients for 4 people:

• 1 kg soaked cod or “polenovka” without any bones
• 1 kg potatoes
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 dcl olive oil
• a cup chopped-up parsley
• freshly ground black paper
• salt

  Soak the dry “polenovka” in a bucket of cold water and leave it soaking for 2 to 3 days (look after the water, that is doesn’t freeze), depending on how big the fish is. Change the water every day, the first day 2 times. The “polenovka” will be ready, when the cod weighs more than double as before. Inspect the soaked “polenovka” meat closely, so is doesn’t have any scales or bones left; if there are, simply remove them. Peel the potatoes and chop them into slices, also cut the garlic cloves into fine slivers. In a big pot, lay the potato slices on the bottom, sprinkle them with garlic, parsley and lay the soaked fish on the top of everything. Mildly salt the fish and full up the pot with water, so is covers every ingredient. Braise on small fire with an open lid, till most of the liquid evaporates, for about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on how big the fish is. After it is cooked, remove the pot from the stove; add olive oil and season it with pepper and wait a bit, till everything sets a little. Squash the cooked ingredients with a fork till you get a thick portioned mixture (do not mash it, because you’ll get a glue-like substance!). Add a bit of olive oil on top, decorate it with fresh herbs and serve it as a starter or main dish. Bon appétit! Wine pairing It is best served with dry or half-dry white wines, as the local “Korčulanski grk” from Croatia that naturally introduces itself to the elegant dish. You can also try the somewhat more, in taste experienced, “Pošip”, that has more structure and body. At home you can also use a fuller Malvazia, a Chardonnay or a Pinot Blanc or Pinot Noir.