10th October

The 10th October 1975 is a very special and important day in my life, since it was then when Ivič Kotnik and I managed to climb on the top of Makalu, an 8463m big mountain giant. We were the 3rd undertaking, alongside Stane Belak, Marjan Manfred, Janko Ažman and Nejc Zaplotnik, who managed to reach the highest top of this mountain range- a day later Janez Dovžan also managed to climb to the top. Our success was thanks to the efforts of the whole team, which counted 21 souls all in all.

Makalu 8463m z vrisano prvenstveno smerjo v južni steni
Makalu, 8463m, with a drawn-in first-ascent on the south face

 

This was the first Himalayan Mountain ranging over 8000m that was conquered by us Slovenes. It was achieved during a championship race to conquer the south face, which is very challenging. For me, being a total newbie to the Himalayas at that time, I still managed to climb the top and at the same time overcame my most daring dreams I had. I was especially lucky since my only fear I had, which was the fear if I could ever return to this beautiful strange country named Nepal a second time, was soon dispersed. I visited this place for many more times, but Makalu was certainly the groundbreaking experience for me and my mountain-style, alpine way of life, and from then on my wish to conquer all of the highest mountains of our planet became even stronger. Actually, it is a dream I still have till this day, more than 40 years after that fateful climb. In the years 1975 till 2011 I took part in 17 different expeditions to climb the peaks ranging over 8000m and I stood on them a proud 11-times.

 

Ivč Kotnik na vrhu Makaluja 10. 10. 1975
Ivč Kotnik on the top of Makalu, 10. 10. 1975

 

And as sheer fate would have it, at my last climb on an over 8000m high mountain, on the 8201m high Cho Oyu, I climbed it on the same 10th October, just 26 years later. In 2001 these were my final thoughts whilst conquering the last bit of hurdles of the climb to the very top:

“Step by step. And then a sheer feeling of ecstatic joy.” The fog was lifting its white veil, and though it I could see the typical triangle shape of the Everest top, about 20km away from me, shining in all its might. I fall into the snow. “Am I really here? On the 8201m high mountain, which is called the Torques Goddess, some 10th October, at the beginning of the 3rd century, on some planet called Earth? By pure miracle fate wanted me exactly 26 years after I managed to climb my very first 8000m mountain Makalu to now stand in front of the biggest top of the world, and I firmly believe in myself that I am going to make it. I am tired, but so thankful and truly fulfilled. I feel a special kind of peace in me. I am whole with myself and the world around me. If only my 2 special people at home would know that everything is ok and that I am thinking about them so strongly in this, for me, magnificent time to be alive. As if they are right behind me. I would just rather stay here and stretch this moment and these feelings out to infinity, if I only could…”

 

Čo Oju 8201m
Cho Oyu 8201m

 

And from the top of Cho Oyu I also managed to ski down the slopes on my skies. A really fine end of an expedition. Later, as I was going through the data, I figured out that I was standing on top of Makalu the first time at 3pm, so I can calculate my alpine time-range at about 26 years and 15 minutes.

That is why every 10th October I make it special each year and celebrate. Sometimes I go on a walk in the woods and pick up mushrooms on the go, sometimes I roast chestnuts and drink a glass of must on my balcony. I remember both climbs very well, especially how I felt at that time and what pure joy it was to me. And because of each 10th October, autumn is even more beautiful for me every year anew.

Med smučanjem s Čo Oja 10. 10. 2001
Skiing on Cho Oyu 10. 10. 2001

 

Viki Grošelj
Viki Grošelj

Born 3.6.1952. Sports educator by trade, with 40 years of working in primary schools, but also a top mountain climber, Himalayan, mountain rescuer and mountain guide.
Besides countless expeditions to Slovenian and foreign mountains, I also took part on more than 30 expeditions to non-European mountain passes. In the Himalayas, I conquered 11 ascends to 10 out of the 14. mountain tops, ranging over 8000m.

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